Mukupera kwema1980 s, vadzidzisi vewaini Rosemary George vakanyora bhuku rakanakisisa rinonzi Chianti uye Wines Tuscany, iyo yandinokurudzira kune ani zvake anofarira muItaly wine. Pandakatanga kuiverenga, ndakarohwa nechimwe chinhu: Pese paanobata pamhinzwa, somuenzaniso kushandiswa kwezvinonzi "mazambiringa anowirirana" (mazambiringa anobva kuTuscan akadai seCabernet, Merlot, kana chero chii) kupa Chianti iyo yakawanda kune dzimwe nyika inonaka, inogara ichitaura nezvePaolo de Marchi weTuscany anoremekedzwa Isole e Olena wemizambiringa.
Ndichiri kutsvakurudza nzira yekufamba muChianti Classico region, ndakasangana naye ndokunzwisisa nei. Paolo nemudzimai wake, Marta, vari vaviri vevanhu vane mutsa zvikuru ini ndinoziva; yakasununguka uye ichida chaizvo kutora nguva yekubatsira vanhu. Iye anonziwo mumwe wevatongi gumi vashoma vanoita waini munyika. Mifungiro ake inonyatsofungisisa uye inoita zvinhu zvakawanda. Uye hongu, vakashandura pane imwe nguva kubva paakataura naRothermary mubhuku rake.
Panguva iyoyo, Paolo akanga achishamiswa netariro yekushandisa michero yakawanda yeTuscan kuwedzera mapurisa nekuchiva kuChianti Classico, uye izvi zvinoda mubereki muchidimbu. Kunyange zvazvo nzvimbo iri pakati peFlorence neSiena yakagara ichibudisa waini yakaisvonaka, apo Baron Bettino Ricasoli akatanga chirevo cheChianti Classico mumakore ekuma1850 akashandisa Sangiovese, matavi makuru matsvuku eTuscany, uye mamwe maCanaiolo Toscano (imwewo mazambiringa matsvuku, kutsamwisa Sangiovese) .
Kunyange zvazvo waini yaive yakanakisisa uye yakakunda mishonga, vaida kuragura, saka akawedzerawo kugadzirira-kunwa waini yaisanganisira Malvasia del Chianti, mazambiringa matsvuku.
Zvinosuruvarisa, iyo Komisheni iyo yakagadzira DOC yeChianti Classico nzvimbo yakagamuchira chigadzirwa chekupedzisira uye vamanikidzi vamanikidzi kuisa mazambiringa machena muwaini yavo; Zvakawanda zvewaini zvinogadzirwa maererano nemitemo zvakanga zvisina urombo, chimiro chaChianti chakavhiringidza, uye vazhinji vevarimi vatsva vakatanga kuedza nemafungiro eSangiovese neCabernet kana mamwe marudzi emamwe mazambiringa - kunze kwekudaro, Antinori akasika Tignanello, ainzi Sangiovese- Cabernet inobatanidza iyo inonzi Vino da Tavola (itafura yewaini, yakaderera zvikuru) nokuti haina kukodzera kuDOC.
Nenguva isipi munhu wese aive achiedza nemamwe mawaini pamwe chete aya, uye vazhinji vakanga vachiwedzerawo zvishoma zvishoma zveCabernet kana Merlot kuChianti Classico kuti vazvipe kune dzimwe nyika dzakanaka. Paolo akadyara munda wemizambiringa weCabernet, "chikamu nokuti nyika yakanga yakanaka kune mazambiringa eKabernet, uye chikamu nokuti vamwe vose vaizviita." Akanga achifunga kuti achishandisa Cabernet kuti avandudze muviri uye ruvara rweChianti Classico, asi akazofunga kuti Cabernet inokunda Sangiovese (ane chikonzero; vazhinji veChiantis vane Cabernet mavari vane chirevo chakasiyana yekudzivirira mukati mavo maruva).
Akazopedzisira asarudza kuti mazambiringa anoyevedza kuti aongorwe Sangiovese is Syrah, chiremera cheFrench chinobva kuRhone Valley, ndokudyara maekala mashomanana acho. Zvisinei, panguva iyo munda wemizambiringa wakasvika pakugadzirwa, akanga achifunga nezvemazano ose ekushandisa mazambiringa akazara: "Vanofanira kuongororwa," anodaro. "Simba reTuscany, rakafanana neyo ipi zvayo yewaini inobereka, inoratidzika muhuwandu hwemawaini, izvo zvakasiyana-siyana zvinoita kuti waini isakanganisika Tuscan." Izvi zvinowanzobva kumuchero weSangiovese, uye iye zvino asvika pakugumira kuti maTuscans anofanira kushanda nemagetsi avo eSangiovese (chikwata chiri mazambiringa akasiyana-siyana), kusarudza chete avo vanobereka mazambiringa akanaka kwazvo kuti vape mazambiringa akanaka kwazvo .
Mukuona kwake, kiyi yekubudisa waini yakanaka inoshanda mumunda wemizambiringa; chii chinoitika mu winery mushure mokukohwa ndeyechipiri. Ndiro mazambiringa anoverenga.
Kutenda kwaPaolo mukukosha kwechimiro chewaini hakusi kungoita nyoka; anotumira kune 26 (pakupedzisira kuverenga) nyika, akashanda muCalifornia, akashanyira Australia kakawanda, uye akaviravira waini kubva kumativi ose enyika.
Australia ine zvigadzirwa zvakawanda, Chile ine mari shoma kwazvo yebasa, sezvakaita South Africa, uye Eastern Europe isingazivikanwi yakawanda iyo inogona kuve iri giant rinorara. Sezvaanotaura, inenge chero munhu anogona kubudisa waini "yepasi rose" ine chikamu chikuru cheChabernet nemamwe mazambiringa, uye unoita basa rakanaka; vatori veTuscan vanotevera nzira iyi mukuedza kukwezva kutambirwa kwepasi rose vanogona kuzviwana vachitengesa kubva mumusika nokuti mari yavo inopfuura yakanyanya kupfuura yevaswikwi vanogona kushandisa mari shoma kana mishonga.
Kana, pane kudaro, vanoshanda kuti vape mazambiringa akanaka eTuscan anokwanisa, ivo vachave vachigadzira chimwe chinhu chaicho chavo, uye chichagara chichitsvakwa nevanodzidza.
Iwe unogona kunge uri kunetseka, panguva ino, izvo Paolo anoita nemazambiringa kubva kuCabernet naSyrah minda yemizambiringa. Ita waini, iyo yaanyorera Collezione De Marchi. Ikoko kune Cabernet Collezione De Marchi, iyo yakakunda Gambero Rosso yaida mari yechitatu nemakwikwi eParker mumakore ekuma 90, L'Eremo, Siraa iyo yakaisa chechina mumapofu inononoka makore mashoma adarika, shure kwemashure matatu makuru eRhone Valley wines, uye Chardonnay Collezione De Marchi, Chardonnay yakashongedzwa nebhari iyo Paolo asati achiri kugutsikana zvachose, "kunyange zviri nani gore negore."
I Isole e Olena label, kune rumwe rutivi, yakachengeterwa maitiro edzimba eTuscan aizotarisira kune imwe nzvimbo muChianti Classico. Kune Chianti Classico, yakagadzirwa kubva munenge 80% Sangiovese, Canaiolo, uye (kana gore rinorida) kusvika 5% yeSyrah. Zvadaro kune Cepparello, "izvo Isole e Olena zvese," iyo yakawanda yakakwana yakawanda yezana yeSangiovese tafura yewaini iyo ingadai yakave Paolo's Chianti Classico Riserva iyo DOC yakabvumira Chianti Classico kuti iite kubva kuSangiovese chete. Iye zvino Chianti Classico inogona kuitwa kubva kuSangiovese chete, tichaona izvo Paolo anosarudza. Pakupedzisira, pane Vinsanto, Tuscany's vewaini yekare yekugamuchira uye kugadzikana, iyo inogadzirwa kubva kumuchero mazambiringa (Malvasia neTrbibiano) inotorwa kare munguva yekukohwa, yakabvumira kuoma muzambiringa wakaomeswa, yakamanikidzwa munaJanuary, uye iyo yakazora-yakaviriswa uye yakwegura kwemakore mana vasati vashongedza. Zvibereko zvePaolo zvinoseka zvishoma, uye Vinsanto yake inoonekwa seimwe yepamusoro yeItaly yewaini yewaini.
Vashanyi vakagamuchirwa paIsole e Olena, kunyange iwe usingafaniri kutarisira vanhu kumira zvavari kuita paunosvika kunze kwekuti iwe wakadana mberi kuti uite musangano; Nenguva yokutanga ini ndakaenda ndakawana vamwe varume vachigadzira trailer ne arc-welder muchivanze ("kubvisa mabwe kunokisa gehena kunze kwemichina"), ndokuguma nekuendesa kumunda wemizambiringa mutsva (mune zvose, iyo nzvimbo ine zvishoma pane maekare zana eminda yemizambiringa) naPiero Masi, mutariri weimba, kuona kuti zvinhu zvaiuya sei.
Kuti usvike Isole e Olena, tora nzira huru kubva kuFlorence kusvika kuSiena, uye uende kuSan Donato; kuyambuka kuSan Donato, kuenda kuCastellina, uye tendeuka apo iwe unouya kuchiratidzo cheIsole. Mugwagwa, iye zvino wakanyatsorongedzwa, ndeimwe yezvikonzero Paolo asingashandisi Agritourism: "Ndakabvarura kamuri kwevhiki, kamwechete," akandiudza. "Mukomana uyu aiva neBentley." Akadzika pasi sezvaaifamba achienda kumba, ndokubva aenda kuFlorence mangwanani akatevera. " Chimwe chikonzero? "Zvinotora nguva kubva pamawaini angu."
[Yakagadziridzwa naDanette St. Onge]